When you think of Nagano Prefecture, it’s hard not to imagine its renowned winter resorts blanketed in pristine snow and the breathtaking majesty of the Japanese Alps. While its world-class snow resorts are indeed a must-see, Nagano has much more to offer beyond the slopes.
One of the region’s best-kept secrets is the Suwa area, an often overlooked gem in Nagano that had been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. This underexplored part of Nagano offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and authentic suburban charm that is waiting to be discovered.
Today, I’m excited to share the details of my 4-day, 3-night trip to this relatively unknown area. Prepare to be amazed by the myriad of experiences Suwa has to offer, from its historical landmarks and cultural treasures to its authentic rural charm.
Where is Suwa?
Surround by Lake Suwa, the biggest Lake in Nagano, it encompasses several towns and cities, including Shimosuwa Town, Kamisuwa Onsen Town (part of Suwa City), Okaya City, Fujimi Town, Chino City, and Hara Village.
How to get there?
SHIMOSUWA TOWN: Spiritual and Historical
Suwa Taisha dates back over a millennium and holds significant historical and spiritual importance. Interestingly, instead of a single shrine, it actually consists of four main shrine complexes divided into two pairs: the Upper Shrines and the Lower Shrines, which is a very unique feature of all the shrines in Japan.
It is popular for visitors to make a pilgrimage to all four shrines for blessings. Suwa Taisha is also famous for its “Onbashira Festival,” which involves the ceremonial cutting and transportation of large tree trunks to the shrines, symbolizing the renewal of their sacred pillars every seven years.
Nakasendo Trail
The Nakasendo Trail, one of Japan’s historic Edo-period highways, offers travelers a unique glimpse into Japan’s past. Spanning from Kyoto to Edo (modern-day Tokyo), this ancient road comprises of 69 post towns. And interestingly, Shimosuwa Town is the only town with hot spring, making it a vital rest stop for travelers, offering lodging, food, and a much needed therapeutic soak.
“Honjin” means headquarters, and these establishments were the most prestigious type of lodging available along the Nakasendo during the Edo period. They primarily served traveling daimyo (feudal lords), their retainers, government officials, and members of the imperial family. Due to their importance, honjin were built with specific luxuries and specifications to ensure the comfort and security of their esteemed guests.
Honjin Iwanami is a prime example, boasting a Japanese garden that has been selected as one of the best 100 gardens in Japan as well as a prefectural treasure. Upon your visit, you will be warmly welcomed by the 28th generation family head with a bowl of matcha and delicate sweets.
Relax into the seasonal charm of the garden, where each season brings a unique beauty. Afterward, retreat to an onsen ryokan right next door for a truly rejuvenating experience.
There are various accommodations in Shimosuwa, ranging from long-established inns and hotels boasting fine cuisine and hot springs to affordable guest houses.
Chosenkaku Kameya is a premium lodging adjacent to Honjin Iwanami has 9 luxurious rooms.
You will be delighted to know that one of the special rooms has the luxury of your very own private bath, overlooking the Akimiya (autumn shrine) of Suwa Taisha.
Nidec Music Box Museum SUWANONE
Another unique attraction you wouldn’t want to miss is the musix box museum in the area.
This museum, established by Nidec Corporation, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of music boxes, showcases an extensive collection from various eras and regions. From antique, hand-cranked models to modern, electronic versions, the collection spans the full history and evolution of music boxes.
What’s even better is that you can actually create your very own music box! This hands-on experience is both fun and educational, allowing you to personalize a unique souvenir from your trip.
During the workshop, you’ll learn how to assemble and customize your own music box. There is an astonishing array of melodies to choose from, ranging from classical music to popular anime tunes. Customize your music box by selecting different casings and decorative elements. For a unique twist, you can even have your music box placed inside various plush toys. I chose a cute Shibainu plushie and added a pop song by Yoasobi, creating a delightful and personalized keepsake. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the entire experience cost less than 3000 yen!
Find out more information here: https://suwanone.jp/workshop/mymusicbox
SUWA CITY: A Soothing Retreat
On the second day, we stayed over at Kamisuwa Onsen Town, located along the shores of Lake Suwa in Suwa City.
We first treated ourselves to Clasuwa, a multifaceted facility where a restaurant, bakery, and souvenir shop seamlessly merge, offering a delightful combination of dining, fresh baked goods, and unique keepsakes.
For sake enthusiasts, a visit to the Suwa Gokura (Suwa Five Breweries) is a must. This collection of five historic sake breweries in the Suwa area offers an immersive experience into the world of Japanese sake.
You can purchase the “Gokuraku Set” from the Suwa City Tourism Information Center inside JR Kamisuwa Station for 3000 yen. This set includes an original sake glass, a drawstring bag, a digital map for the tour, and a passport that grants you access to all five sake breweries in town. Conveniently located next to each other, these breweries provide a seamless and enjoyable exploration of Suwa’s rich sake heritage.
At each brewery, you can taste about 4-5 different types of sake. If you feel you’ve had enough for the day, you can opt to receive a cup of sake to take home instead.
Find out more about the tour from their English website: suwa5kuratour.suwakanko.jp
Kamisuwa Onsen Shinyu
Kamisuwa Onsen Shinyu is a premier hot spring ryokan located along the shores of Lake Suwa, renowned for its rooms with lakeside views, exceptional hospitality, and therapeutic hot springs. And yes, you get to enjoy your very own private bath in room, again!
The entire hotel is newly renovated in 2024, so check out some of their rooms that are traditional Japanese with a unique modern twist: www.kamisuwa-shinyu.com/rooms/
One of the standout features of this ryokan is its thoughtful barrier-free design, making it an excellent accommodation choice for guests with physical disabilities.
Website: kamisuwa-shinyu.com
OKAYA CITY: Industrial Heritage
Next, we are moving on to Okaya City. Easily accessible from Okaya Station, this fascinating city makes a great addition to your Suwa trip.
Okaya Silk Museum
One of the highlights of my trip was my visit to Okaya Silk Museum, a museum is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the heritage of the silk industry, which played a crucial role in the economic and cultural development of the region.
From the beginning of the Meiji period through the post-World War II era, Okaya in the Suwa region was the world’s leading producer of silk. At its peak, half of Okaya City’s population was involved in the silk industry! This remarkable photo captures the scene of women in kimonos working diligently in a silk factory, highlighting the vibrant community that powered this global industry.
Okaya Silk Museum is the only museum in Japan where visitors can observe silk-spinning at an adjacent silk mill, where one can witness actual silk reeling machines in operation, just as they were during the heyday of silk-spinning.
It takes approximately 2,300 silkworms to produce the silk for a single kimono, and many of the processes involved are labor-intensive, requiring meticulous manual craftsmanship.
Nowadays they have deployed the more modern machineries for silk spinning, however the dwindling demand of silk due to the advancement of synthetic fabric production, only a very limited small batch of silk is produced.
I strongly recommend you to check out the souvenir shops too to support one of the rarest, most precious 100% made-in-Japan silk products.
Website: silkfact.jp
Unagi Kankohso
Wait, what? Yes, I was just as confused when I first heard about it. It has to be more than just a smooth texture… right? It turns out that pupa (silkworms that cocoon themselves) are a by-product of silk spinning. The pupa have to be boiled alive in order to extract silk. In the past, pupae, called “sanagi” in Japanese, were a delicacy in Nagano, embodying the Japanese virtue of “mottainai”—letting nothing go to waste.
Don’t miss the rare opportunity to savor this unique dish when you are in Okaya!
Cycling around Lake Suwa
You can easily rent a bicycle—I rented mine at Oideya in Shimosuwa Town, a local tourism hub, and returned it at Suwa City’s Katakurakan. Completed in 1928, Katakurakan was built by the Katakura Zaibatsu, a conglomerate that amassed wealth through the export of silk products.
Katakurakan is famous for its “Senninburo,” or “one thousand person bath.” Both the building and its expansive marble bath are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
FUJIMI TOWN: Gateway to the Alps
If you are one of those who would rather not melt under the scorching sun, Fujimi Panorama makes the perfect spot to escape the summer heat. The gondola ride takes you up to the summit at an elevation of 1,780 meters, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Yatsugatake Mountains and, on clear days, even catch a glimpse of the majestic Mt. Fuji.
The resort offers a variety of activities year-round. In the winter, it becomes a haven for winter sports enthusiasts. However, the green season offers just as many exciting experiences.
For one, it boasts Japan’s largest mountain bike field, attracting biking enthusiasts from both Japan and around the world. You can also experience the thrill of paragliding. If you prefer to relax, a slow hike through the charming alpine flowers fields is absolutely soothing.
CHINO CITY: Authentic Rural Life
As we travel further away from Lake Suwa, we are greeted by increasingly serene suburban nature. Our final destination is a quaint hamlet in Chino City, where we will check into a newly renovated kominka (traditional folk house). The address of this hidden gem is so secret that it is only revealed to guests who make a booking.
Let’s take note that this humble hamlet, home to just over 40 households living harmoniously and peacefully for decades, is often described by locals as having “nothing” here.
Indeed, you won’t find any prominent landmarks on Google Maps or typical tourist attractions that make it onto one’s travel bucket lists. It truly has “nothing,” as they say.
But it is precisely this “nothingness” that makes it the perfect place for a quiet, therapeutic getaway, allowing you to indulge in the most authentic rural experiences.
In exchange for the lack of significant historical monuments, you get to instead experience a time-slip back a few decades and see how life was like in the past.
For example, there are warehouses that serve as a testament to how time has stood still in this village since WWII. If you look closely at the walls, you’ll notice they are stained with brown mud. Curious, we asked why. It turns out this was intentionally done to escape air raids, as white walls were often easy targets.
Meal Deliveries
We checked into our beautiful lodging called Yamaura Stay, which is equipped with a kitchen, laundry machine, and other living essentials suitable for medium to long stays. If you decide not to cook, you can also order handmade local cuisine lovingly prepared by the nearby residents.
You may cook if you fancy, but the accommodation also provides a list of local restaurants where you can choose your breakfast and dinner daily, if you prefer.
Soba Making
For more gourmet experiences, visit Katsuyama Soba, where a creative and passionate chef will share with you the secrets of making the simplest soba dumpling.
Enjoy a heartwarming bowl of soba dumplings served with tsuyu—a creative spin on the usual soba noodles we are all used to.
Homecooking Class
We spent an afternoon cooking up a true feast, featuring mountain vegetables inari sushi, stuffed beancurd rolls, young carrot leaf tempura, simmered shimi-daikon (one of my favorite specialties of the region!), nota mochi (the Suwa version of zunda mochi), and rhubarb jelly for a sweet finale.
In just a mere 4-hour cultural experience, we shared many heartwarming and inspiring exchanges across different cultures. When I left, it felt heavy-hearted, as if I had been with them for months…
This is Japan’s “inaka magic”—a charm you can never find in bustling urban cities. For me, it often becomes the highlight of the trip and creates the best memories.
For more info on Chino City, visit Chinotabi!
HARA VILLAGE: A taste of local delights
Hara Village, nestled in the foothills of the Yatsugatake Mountains is the final area we visited in the Suwa region. One of the highlights of this picturesque village is the Ecoline, a scenic route that makes a breathtaking driving trip.
Tateshina Farmer’s Market
I would really loved to stay in Nagano for a little longer, but I had a train to catch back to Tokyo. Before I departed, we visited Tateshina Jiyu Noen, a local farmer’s market located in Hara Village for some last-minute shopping before boarding the Azusa Express back to Shinjuku.
I highly suggest picking up some local fruits, vegetables, honey, and my personal favorite—pasture-raised eggs. These fresh, high-quality items are much more affordable here than in Tokyo, and fresher too, for sure.
Conclusion
Spending 4 days and 3 nights in just the Suwa region of Nagano Prefecture was incredibly rewarding, yet I still feel like I haven’t seen all it has to offer. In the past, I would have tried to explore 3 or 4 prefectures in that time span, but Suwa’s unique charm kept me captivated.
Suwa has so much to offer for those seeking something unique off the beaten path. It’s a place I would definitely revisit, perhaps in a different season, to experience another facet of its beauty.
Hopefully you would enjoy this charming region as much as I did!
