If you’ve ever done Japan’s Golden Route, Tokyo → Kyoto, you’ve definitely passed by this city… and also spectacularly missed it.

That city is Hamamatsu, connected by the Hikari on the Tokaido Shinkansen: 1 hour 30 minutes from Tokyo, and about 1 hour from Kyoto, sitting almost Goldilocks-perfect between the two, making it the ultimate “you had no excuse to skip it” stopover.

Yet, most travelers whizz past, eyes glued to Mt Fuji, completely unaware that Hamamatsu quietly packs some of Japan’s best culture, craftsmanship, food, nature, and musical history into one very livable, very underrated city.

Shizuoka Prefecture is way more than just Mt Fuji. Hamamatsu is the proof,  and it absolutely deserves a stop.

Before we move on, read my previous blog post on Hamamatsu City, featuring some of it’s most celebrated attractions.

Hamamatsu City (written 2021)

Hamamatsu Fruits Park Tokinosumika

That was my first glimpse into the city.
This time, I went back with a mission to dig even deeper. Think hidden corners, hands-on workshops, locals-only experiences, and places I somehow missed the first time around. Hamamatsu revealed a very different side of itself, and it surprised me all over again.

Below is the three-day itinerary I followed on this trip. It takes you deeper into Hamamatsu, from hands-on craft workshops and hidden temples to caves, lakeside views, ropeways, and some very unexpected architectural surprises. If you want to experience the city the way locals know it, this is where the real journey begins.

DAY1: CRAFTS AND CULTURE

 

Experience Traditional Craft: at Nihashi Dye Factory (二橋染工場)

My journey in Hamamatsu began at Nihashi Dye Works, and I honestly could not have chosen a more meaningful place to start. This is not a staged “tourist craft workshop.” It is a living piece of Hamamatsu’s industrial and cultural memory.

During the Showa period, more than 80 chusen dyeing factories once operated in this region. The chusen fabrics were part of everyday life. Today, only five workshops remain.

The process begins with folding and layering the cotton, creating the foundation for the colours to seep through. A metal stencil is placed on top, where you then apply the paste.

Traditionally, this glue was made by a dedicated glue-master, a profession that has disappeared completely. Faced with this loss, Nihashi developed their own original blend made from sticky rice and seaweed, recreating a consistency that feels both ancient and alive.

Next, the dyes are poured. The colours slowly disappear into the cloth, pulled downward by gravity and guided by the artisans’ technique. It is a quiet moment. You cannot force anything. You simply watch the colour find its way.

Finally, the fabric is rinsed, dried, and revealed. What a mesmerizing tenugui! The colours appear all at once, far more beautiful than anything I imagined while applying the dye. I held it close to my chest like a cherished treasure, now knowing exactly how much work and effort is poured (literally) into this piece of art.

You can join this experience with a minimum of two people. For the most updated schedule and rates, it’s always best to check their official website directly:

Website: https://www.nihashi-tinta.co.jp
Booking: Required in advance: https://hamamatsuat.hamamatsu-daisuki.net/experience/318/
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Hamamatsu Station.

A Whimsical Hamlet: Nukumori no Mori

After leaving the dye workshop, I stepped into a completely different universe: Nukumori no Mori, a tiny, fairytale-like hamlet tucked quietly into the woods of Hamamatsu. If you didn’t know this place existed, you would assume you had accidentally wandered onto a European film set, or into the daydream of someone who collects antique teapots.

The buildings curve and lean in that perfectly imperfect way only handmade architecture can. Wooden beams are rounded, windows are framed like picture books, and the paths twist gently through small manicured gardens. It is whimsical, but not overly cute.

Inside this little hamlet are a handful of small shops, each with its own personality. There is a café tucked under warm timber beams, a handcraft store with pieces made by local artists, a bakery sending out quiet waves of warmth, a gelato stand you can’t resist even under cool autumn mist… Everything is modest in scale, but chosen with care.

In the end, Nukumori no Mori feels less like a place you “visit” and more like a small pocket of imagination you accidentally stepped into. You leave it the same way you might close a storybook: slowly, and with the faint wish you could wander just one page more.

Website: https://www.nukumori.jp
Access: About 30 minutes by car from central Hamamatsu

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/column/58814/

Lunch Stop: Shibuki’s Unagi

Hamamatsu’s relationship with unagi runs deep. The city sits beside Lake Hamana, one of Japan’s largest brackish lakes, historically known as a major eel cultivation region.

Hamamatsu is full of excellent eel restaurants, and choosing one can feel almost impossible. This time, we decided on Shibuki, a place that stands out for serving something quite different from the classic unagi bowls everyone knows.

Their specialty is shirayaki—unagi grilled without tare sauce—prepared hitsumabushi style. But instead of pouring on the usual clear broth, Shibuki does something surprising: they top the eel with a warm daikon oroshi ankake, a delicate grated-daikon sauce with just enough body to coat each piece. Alongside it comes a set of vivid, bright umeboshi paste with shiso leaves; sesame seeds; spring onion, and wasabi.

You mix and match as you like, creating different flavour profiles with every scoop. The result is light, aromatic, and very appetizing. It’s clean, elegant, and incredibly refreshing.

Website: https://shibuki.jp/

 

World of Sounds: Hamamatsu Museum of Musical Instruments

After lunch, I headed to one of Hamamatsu’s cultural treasures: the Hamamatsu Museum of Musical Instruments. The city is the birthplace of Yamaha and Kawai, two names recognised around the world, so music here is not just entertainment. It is part of the region’s identity, shaped by decades of craftsmanship and sound-making.

Inside, the museum unfolds like a global sound map. As you wander from room to room, the world shifts with you: delicate strings from Europe, powerful ceremonial drums from Africa, airy bamboo instruments from Southeast Asia, and conch shells once used in ancient Japan.

There is also an experience room where visitors can freely try a variety of instruments to unleash their inner musician.

Website: https://www.gakkihaku.en
Access: About a 10-minute walk from Hamamatsu Station
Hours: 9:30–17:00 (Note: the facility is closed for renovation until 10 July, 2026)

 

A Dose of Yummy Cuteness: Wagashi Making Workshop

The late afternoon, I joined a Nerikiri wagashi workshop led by Chisato san from Kawaii Nerikiri, a certified instructor known for her bubbly personality, encouraging style and beautifully expressive creations.

The lesson begins with small demonstrations: how to handle the dough gently, how to blend colours so they fade softly into each other, then top it with adorable decorations.

Here’s my yummy-chan and seasonal wagashi at first try! Not bad, right?

The experience was remarkably simple and welcoming. The workshop is designed for all ages, with clear demonstrations and easy steps that anyone can follow, perfect for families, beginners, or anyone who wants a fun, tactile moment in their trip.

Note that this time, we utilize the space of Yamaya (more info below) for this expereince, but Chisato-san is very flexible with hosting this workshop at various places, so do check with her if you are interested.

Website: https://yummy-deco.com/

 

Dinner at YAMAYA Café (SANTE Greek Yogurt)

After the workshop, we stayed on for dinner, lovingly prepared by SANTE Greek Yogurt, who creates simple, homey pasta dishes topped with their signature Greek yogurt. They also serve a wide selection of teas, which feels especially fitting in a kominka (traditional folk house) setting.

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sante_greekyogurt/

 

Stay: Okura Act City Hotel Hamamatsu

At the end of Day 1, I checked into Okura Act City Hotel Hamamatsu, a landmark hotel rising gracefully above the city. Before settling into the room, I went up to the observation floor, and that was the moment Hamamatsu rearranged itself in my mind.

From above, the city shows its true proportions. Hamamatsu is neither overwhelming nor provincial. It has that rare, enviable balance: a compact city centre with full convenience, surrounded by green space, distant mountains, the flow of the Tenryu River, and the wide openness of the Pacific Ocean, as well as Lake Hamana that sits in the city, which adds to the feeling that Hamamatsu is naturally cradled on every side. Looking down, you understand why people who move here tend to stay.

The rooms carry the familiar comfort of Okura standards—quiet, spacious, and thoughtfully designed, with beautiful views of the city that shift in character from sunrise to night.

It is the kind of room where you open the curtains and immediately feel oriented, grounded, and soothed. (If you feel like, wake up early for an absolutely stunning sunrise view!)

What makes this hotel especially memorable is its support for Hamamatsu’s musical identity. In the lobby, they host free charity musical events on certain dates, featuring young artists from Hamamatsu, giving travellers and locals a chance to appreciate emerging talent in an intimate setting.

Donations are welcomed, and attending feels like contributing to something meaningful.

Hotel Website: https://www.act-okura.co.jp/

 

 

DAY 2: ZEN AND ANIME PILGRIMAGE

 

Ryotanji Temple: A Quiet Autumn Morning

The second day began at Ryotanji Temple, a temple with deep historical ties to the Ii clan, one of Japan’s most influential warrior families.

The temple served as the Ii family’s bodaiji (family ancestral temple) for over 1000 years, until Ii Naomasa (the 24th lord) moved to Hikone City in Shiga Prefecture in the 1600s.

Ryotanji Temple is best known for its garden, said to have been designed by the renowned landscape master Kobori Enshu. It is a composition of mountain rocks and a pond, fulfilling the characteristics of a typical zen garden.

Website: https://www.ryotanji.com/ 
Access: About 50–60 minutes by car from central Hamamatsu

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2691/ 

 

Mystery from 250 Million Years Ago: Ryugashido 

Just a short drive away from Ryotanji Temple is Ryugashido, one of Japan’s most impressive limestone caves and certainly one of Hamamatsu’s most unexpected highlights.

Inside the cave, ou can feel that age in the dramatic shapes around you: towering stalactites, rippling flowstone walls, and sculptural formations carved slowly by dripping water.

The cave stays at a constant 18°C, which makes it refreshingly cool in summer and surprisingly warm in winter. It is an easy, family-friendly walk, and a great place for children to let their imagination run wild as they search for shapes and creatures hidden in the stone.

Website: https://www.doukutsu.co.jp
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Ryotanji Temple
Hours: 9:00–17:00

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2682/

 

Hokoji Temple: A Zen Meal in the Mountains

After leaving Ryugashido, the road winds deeper into the mountains until the trees open quietly to reveal Hokoji Temple, a spacious complex surrounded by tall cedars and soft forest light. In autumn, the grounds transform into a warm palette of gold and amber, and the entire temple feels like it’s breathing with the season.

Our visit included a shojin ryori meal prepared at the temple, a thoughtful and grounding experience that began with chanting the Five Reflections together with the most hospitable, welcoming monk.

 It is a simple ritual, yet it shifts your awareness immediately. Every dish feels purposeful, every flavor handled with care, and the silence in between becomes part of the meal itself.

What surprised me most was how much effort the temple has put into making the grounds photogenic without losing authenticity. Mirrored foliage, framed viewpoints, marbles in the temizusha, and gentle forest paths naturally guide your eye toward the beauty of the surroundings.

Hokoji Temple also offers temple stay, zazen meditation, sutra tracing, and other cultural programs for anyone who wants to engage with Zen more directly. I absolutely recommend visiting in autumn. It was one of the highlights of Hamamatsu for me personally.

Website: https://www.houkouji.or.jp
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Ryugashido

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2700/

Village-3 in Real Life: Tenryu-Futamata Station

If you’re an Evangelion fan, this is where your heart picks up speed.

At Tenryu-Futamata StationVillage-3 in Evangelion: 3.0+1.0 Thrice Upon a Time unfolds in real life.

The station itself still looks exactly like the kind of place where an anime protagonist would make a dramatic life decision. The retro wooden platform, the quiet rural surroundings, and the faint scent of nostalgia all make you feel like you’ve stepped inside a frame of the film.

But the magic doesn’t stop there. Tenryu-Futamata is also home to a historic railway turntable and roundhouse, both still fully operational. During the guided tour, when the massive turntable begins to move, it feels like watching a piece of early 20th-century engineering come alive. Eva fans will appreciate the industrial mood; train lovers will be in heaven.

There are photo spots referencing Village-3, new signage, and touches that gently blend the station’s real history with its anime legacy. Standing there, it’s easy to imagine Shinji walking quietly along the tracks or Rei standing at the edge of the platform under soft afternoon light.

Tours available daily; times vary: https://www.tenhama.co.jp/events/5018/

Website: https://www.tenhama.co.jp/about/station/tenryufutamata/

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2745/

 

Bonus: EVA-01 TEST TYPE Statue at Hamamatsu City Hall

Eva fans get an extra treat in Hamamatsu!

Hamamatsu is currently in the middle of a major regional project called Shin-Hamamatsu Keikaku 2025, a citywide collaboration that celebrates both Hamamatsu’s cultural identity and its unexpected role in the Evangelion universe. As part of this initiative, a massive EVA-01 TEST TYPE Statue has been erected at Hamamatsu City Hall, instantly transforming the plaza into a pilgrimage spot for fans, until 25 Jan, 2026.

The Shin-Hamamatsu Keikaku runs only until 28 Feb 2026, which means EVA-01 TEST TYPE Statue, the themed displays, and the wrapping train are all temporary. (although I am really hoping that they will extend it!) If you want to experience this rare Eva atmosphere woven through the city, now is the time to go before it disappears…

Website: https://shin-hamamatsu-keikaku2025.jp/

 

Sunset of a Lifetime: Bentenjima Seaside Park

As Day Two came to a close, we made our way to Bentenjima Seaside Park, one of Hamamatsu’s most quietly beautiful sunset spots.

Out in the water stands the park’s iconic vermillion archway, a sculptural landmark. When the tide is calm and the light falls just right, it looks as though the sun is slowly sinking into the open frame of the structure.

For only a couple of months each year, the sun drops perfectly into the center of the archway, creating a rare alignment that feels like destiny. When the timing is right, the light glows through the frame as if the sea itself is holding the sun for a brief moment before it slips away.

The scene is simple, but unforgettable. It is the perfect way to end the day. A moment of stillness that feels both fleeting and deeply grounding.

Website: https://www.bentenjima.net/
Access:
Train: About 5 minutes on foot from Bentenjima Station on the JR Tokaido Line
From Hamamatsu Station: Approximately 13 minutes by JR train
By car: About 25 minutes from central Hamamatsu

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2592/

 

Stay: KAI Enshu

For the night, we checked into KAI Enshu, part of Hoshino Resorts’ KAI brand. KAI properties follow a clear concept: each one is a modern Japanese-style ryokan rooted deeply in its region’s culture. Instead of offering a generic “Japanese inn” experience, KAI focuses on local identity—architecture, crafts, cuisine, and rituals that reflect the character of the place itself.

At KAI Enshu, that essence is unmistakably tea. The Enshu region has a long history of tea cultivation, and the ryokan elevates this heritage into a beautifully immersive experience. One highlight is their lavish tea ceremony-style tasting, where guests can enjoy multiple varieties of local tea prepared with care and paired with seasonal sweets.

Dinner carries the same philosophy: regional ingredients such as puffer fish, river eel, and a delightful matcha sweet ending to my meal. Enjoy its quiet elegance, and a pace that encourages you to slow down and savour.

The rooms offer views toward Lake Hamana, giving you a sense of openness and calm. There are also a tea pot in your room where you can enjoy all kinds of different local tea flavors.

Website: https://hoshinoresorts.com/en/hotels/kaienshu/
Access: About 30 minutes by car from Hamamatsu Station

 

DAY 3: SCENIC SPOTS AND LOCAL FINDS

 

Christmas Charm: Hamamatsu Flower Park

We began Day Three at Hamamatsu Flower Park, which takes on a very different character in late November. The park is calm during this period, the walkways are quiet, and the atmosphere feels almost contemplative. But the stillness makes the Christmas display stand out even more.

The soft light, festive arrangements, and glistening baubles transform the greenhouse into a dreamy, winter sanctuary.

Although November is one of the quieter months for flowers, the park shines across the year. In early spring, the landscape bursts into colour with 500 thousands tulips and a thousand cherry blossom trees. Late spring and early summer bring roses, hydrangeas, and a brighter energy to the park. Autumn offers dahlias and gentle foliage, while winter focuses on illuminations and indoor floral displays.

Website: https://e-flowerpark.com/
Access: About 5 minutes by car from Kanzanji area

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2529/

Kanzanji Ropeway: A View Over Lake Hamana

Next up, we headed to one of Hamamatsu’s most scenic experiences: the Kanzanji Ropeway. This is Japan’s only ropeway that crosses directly over a lake, and the moment the cabin lifts off, the landscape opens into a sweeping view of Lake Hamana.

At the summit, you’ll find a small but charming music box exhibition, a reminder of Hamamatsu’s deep musical roots. Delicate melodies spill softly from handcrafted boxes, adding a nostalgic glow to the mountaintop atmosphere. It’s an unexpected but thoughtful touch, especially after visiting the Museum of Musical Instruments the day before.

Once you reach the summit, don’t just explore the indoor exhibits. Step outside to the observation deck, where the panorama becomes fully unobstructed. From here, Lake Hamana feels vast and peaceful, the kind of view that convinces that it’s truly a city that deserves to be fallen in love with.

Website: https://www.kanzanji-ropeway.jp/
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Hamamatsu Flower Park

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2547/

 

Lunch at THE HAMANAKO TERRACE

Lunch was at THE HAMANAKO TERRACE, a lake-facing restaurant that feels immediately refreshing the moment you step inside. Large windows open toward Lake Hamana, letting in soft natural light and a calm breeze from the water.

The dishes here are beautifully prepared and served as a gentle course of appetizer, fish dish, main dish, and dessert. I enjoyed every part of the meal, especially the carefully crafted fish and meat dishes, but the star was unmistakably the salad — a composition of over 30 types of local vegetables. Each ingredient had its own distinct flavor, a clear sign that nothing was simply tossed in. Everything had been prepared separately — lightly vinegared, roasted, boiled, or steamed — creating layers of texture that reminded me just how remarkable simple food can be when treated with respect.

It was, honestly, the most sophisticated and inspiring salad I’ve ever had. I would return to THE HAMANAKO TERRACE for this dish alone.

Website: https://hamanako-terrace.com/
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Kanzanji Ropeway

 

HUIS: Slow made in Enshu 

One personal request I added to the Day Three itinerary was a stop at HUIS (pronoucne “house”), a brand I became a little obsessed with after first discovering it in Shibuya Scramble Square. Their clothes feel soft, weightless, and quietly elegant, the kind of pieces that stay in your wardrobe for years. Knowing that the brand originates from Hamamatsu made this visit feel almost like coming full circle.

HUIS is built on the heritage of Enshu-ori, a traditional textile from the Enshu region known for its exceptionally fine weaving. Historically, Enshu-ori supplied fabric for kimono prized for its durability, breathability, and understated beauty, and now it is primarily used as a high-end textile for apparel. Today, only a handful of weaving mills remain, each carrying techniques passed down for generations.

I had the chance to meet the founder during my visit, and hearing his deep commitment to preserving local craftsmanship — made me appreciate the brand even more.

One of the defining qualities of Enshu-ori is that the textiles are woven on traditional shuttle looms — machines that have been operating for decades, sometimes close to a century, and move at a gentle pace modern equipment can’t replicate. These looms create fabrics with air, texture, and softness that simply cannot be reproduced by high-speed machinery.

HUIS is now working to preserve something even rarer: Japan’s last surviving corduroy weaving facility, maintained by the very last artisan who still knows how to operate it, a craftsman now in his 80s. We may really be looking at one of the last pairs of truly made in Japan corduroy pants…

For anyone who loves local craft or wants to take home something meaningful, and lovingly made in Japan from Hamamatsu, HUIS is a beautiful place to start — not just a brand, but a story woven into every thread.

Website: https://1-huis.com/
Access: Several stores nationwide; Hamamatsu main atelier in the Enshu region

 

Unagi Pie Factory: Hamamatsu’s Most Beloved Snack

After the fashion shopping, we stopped by the Unagi Pie Factory, home of one of Hamamatsu’s most iconic souvenirs: Unagi Pie, affectionately known as the “night snack” (夜のお菓子). Even if you’ve never tried it before, you’ve probably seen it in souvenir shops around Shizuoka Prefecture — the glossy, flaky pastry with a hint of eel essence that somehow became a national favorite.

The factory offers a short, easy-to-follow tour where you can peek into the production process and learn how this nostalgic sweet has been made for decades. Large windows let you watch the baking line in action, with the warm aroma of sweetness and butter drifting through the air. It feels surprisingly comforting — like stepping into a childhood memory, even if you didn’t grow up eating them.

Website: https://www.unagipai-factory.jp/
Access: About 25 minutes by car from central Hamamatsu

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/sightseeing/2899/

 

Sweets Bank: A Playful Dessert Haven

Our last stop of the day was Sweets Bank, one of Hamamatsu’s most delightfully unexpected places. The moment you arrive, you’re greeted by a towering set of oversized table and chairs, as if you’ve suddenly shrunk into a miniature. It’s playful without feeling childish, and instantly puts you in a good mood.

Sweets Bank is a stylish space with café menu centered around pastries, parfaits, and drinks that feature their signature flavours.

A sweet final note to close the journey, and the perfect place to pick up souvenirs that carry the taste of Hamamatsu back home.

Website: https://sweetsbank.jp/
Access: About 10 minutes by car from central Hamamatsu

More info: https://www.hamamatsu-japan.com/en/column/47402/

 

Final Thoughts

And just like that, I jumped back onto the Hikari bound for Shinagawa, still processing how a “quick three-day trip” somehow felt… criminally short. Hamamatsu has that kind of pull. You think you’re here for a neat little getaway, and suddenly the city taps your shoulder like, “Actually, you’ll need at least a week if you want to cover everything properly… including the spots you wrote about back in 2021.”

Hamamatsu is the kind of place that quietly excels at everything — nature, food, culture, crafts, history — without screaming for attention. It’s the Japanese equivalent of a friend who is good at 12 things but never brags. But it is time this friend shines in the spotlight.

More details over at Hamamatsu City’s website, and follow them on Instagram for latest events!

Website: www.hamamatsu-japan.com

Facebook: visit.hamamatsu.en

Instagram: @visit_hamamatsu

PS: If you enjoy this article or find it helpful, it would mean the world if you could help me support Japan by buying a daikon!

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